Bass Boat Mods > Jackplates

Hydraulic jackplate school me

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Jig Man:
I have a Z 20 Nitro with a 250 Vrod, power poles, their units, and 4 batteries.  It is very light in the front end.  I can't use the trim until I get to 40 mph.

Will a hydraulic jackplate help me with this issue?

Curt:

--- Quote from: Jig Man on February 03, 2017, 06:55:05 PM ---
I can't use the trim until I get to 40 mph.


--- End quote ---

Wow! If I recall, one of the comments made by @frugalangler recently mentioned that there will be cases where the trim will only be used a very small amount in some instances. Maybe yours is one of those?

I'll be interested in hearing people's feedback on this one.  :nod:

Eric Low:
Not sure what light in the front end means? Chine?  I recommend a hydraulic jack mostly to adjust for conditions.....heavy seas or shallow water. A manual jack can be tweaked for best everyday use.

bullet20dc:
you're not light in the front  you're heavy in the rear    Yes a hydraulic plate will help with getting on plane faster but thats expensive Thats not really its function but a side affect  Yes you can dump it deep to get  you up in the rough stuff but mostly used to get higher up on the transom to reduce drag and increase speed .or run in the skinny stuff.  why not just set up the motor correctly.   Possibly a set of wedges would help to tuck u under and get you on the pad or near the pad where the trim will help.  We run almost the same boat with a single talon but 5 batteries and  has no problem responding to trim adjustments.  you didn't say if you're running a fixed or manual  10 inch set back jack-plate     almost a necessity on that rig.  are you sure the trim unit is working under load. ,  What exactly happens when u trim out.,  are you throwing a tail , do the rpms run up and no speed gain  hows the water pressure at speed.  all questions that need answering
   setting up a motor correctly is more then bolting it on  starting it up and go for a ride.   prop ,  cup and  pitch all play a part plus height and set back,  tuck  and cav plate types help too.

just suggested starting point only

26 P x 14 1/2 3 blade SS
10 inch manual set back plate
3 1/2 inches below pad

Jig Man:
OK Bullet it is heavy in the back end. 

I have raised the motor several times to get the best p2p that I can.  It comes up good and runs fine (70 mph at 6,000 rpms and 20+ pounds of water pressure).  My problem is the thing wants to porpoise at any speed under 40 if I trim it at all.  It tends to porpoise at speeds lower than 40 with the motor tucked all the way under.  I was hoping the hydro jack plate would allow me to have more control of the bow at lower speeds and stop the porpoising problem. 

An added benefit might be lowering the jack to allow the poles and motor to clear my garage door.  Now I have to take the transom saver off, trim the motor down and partially deploy the poles to clear the opening going in or out of the garage.

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