Bass Boat Mods > Jackplates
Hydraulic jackplate school me
frugalangler:
--- Quote from: Curt on February 04, 2017, 06:40:36 PM ---
Wow! If I recall, one of the comments made by @frugalangler recently mentioned that there will be cases where the trim will only be used a very small amount in some instances. Maybe yours is one of those?
--- End quote ---
I doubt it, I'm with Charlie on this one, need more data to narrow down what's going on, but my suspicion would be it needs a J/P if not got one, set up correctly, and then see what's up. His suggested set point is right on for that boat to start, I've set up a couple in our club and that's where we started. the SS prop to start with would be either a Tempest Plus (about the best 3-blade for the price going) or a Fury 3, but some boats just don't respond to the Fury the way you'd expect. IF you start w/ the 26P get data on RPM vs. Speed (GPS) vs. water pressure with your normal running load at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) - I really suspect you're gonna be low on RPM from what that motor should spin at WOT, but that all depends on your running load. If your trim IS working correctly and you still can't get into the trim a little at 25+ without the bow pointing at the moon, then you might need some negative wedge to tuck the motor under more - make sure when you are launching (taking off, not unloading from trailer) that your motor is trimmed ALL the way down, many make the mistake not doing that thinking trim doesn't need a lot of adjustment (trim is something you are ALWAYS adjusting on a bass boat) - that boat will launch and the bow will roll over (come down level) within about 4 seconds if set up correctly, and then adding trim once you're underway and accelerating you should from my experience be about 3/4 +/- 1/8th of max trim running on plane.
The other question? what is your tackle load and where are/is it stored, you'd be surprised how much weight soft plastics add.
frugalangler:
--- Quote from: Jig Man on February 05, 2017, 02:13:41 PM ---I have raised the motor several times
--- End quote ---
OK, so it does have a manual J/P, and porpoising can frequently be caused by trim/height not being optimum, which a Hydro J/P would solve as well as your other issues of parking. Your speed and RPM and H2O sound good at WOT, but plunging would help at lower speeds with both handling and I'd suspect the porpoising also.
And, why do you necessarily think you need to add in trim below 40? The more keel in the water at slow speed will give you more cornering control since the bow will bite better and react to motor power? I've honestly only driven one boat that NEEDED trim at low speed - my CAT hull, because of exactly the reason above, with 2 keels in the water, turning the motor leaned the boat and the keel would bite and turn abruptly, requiring rapid counter steering, but trimming up AND raising the engine on that boat will allow it to be controlled, kinda opposite what you'd expect.
Jig Man:
(And, why do you necessarily think you need to add in trim below 40?) Because it feels like it is plowing?
Curt:
I have to admit that all of these jackplate/performance discussions have helped me to finally start to understand all of the various aspects of setting a boat up properly for top performance.
Thank you to all of you who have been posting helpful tips and suggestions :thumbup:
bullet20dc:
ok first im hearing about porpoising so Ill explain what causes it
1. a bent keel take a string and go from enter of the pad to the first rise of the bow and make sure the keel is straight no banana bend in it I doubt this is the cause but I have pulled my hair out on 2 boats now that were stored on crap trailers for a long time and it actually cause this. No fix for it tho
2 boat tried to rise on the pad and prop loses bite drops the bow and the whole process starts again up drop uo drop feels like porpoising but its really not by definition caused but several things, not enough set back, not enough cup in prop, ,motor too high blades on prop nicked badly or bent, at low speeds and gettin on plane faster actually the easiest fix believe it or not on that rigs setup is a hydrofoil type plate add on put one on SBL's nitro and made a huge difference. Ugly as he!! but the performance diff is worth it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SE-Sport-300-High-Performance-Hydrofoil-Used/332083706486?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dde76db5a89a24b6eb54277491458ee62%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152414208423
at high speed lets say above 40 cup, prop , setback, motor depth all need to be corrected
3. driver error way to much trim or trim switch isnt stopping when let go of the button
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