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Author Topic: Hydraulic jackplate school me  (Read 5261 times)

Offline Jig Man

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Hydraulic jackplate school me
« on: February 03, 2017, 06:55:05 PM »
I have a Z 20 Nitro with a 250 Vrod, power poles, their units, and 4 batteries.  It is very light in the front end.  I can't use the trim until I get to 40 mph.

Will a hydraulic jackplate help me with this issue?
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Offline Curt

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2017, 06:40:36 PM »

I can't use the trim until I get to 40 mph.


Wow! If I recall, one of the comments made by @frugalangler recently mentioned that there will be cases where the trim will only be used a very small amount in some instances. Maybe yours is one of those?

I'll be interested in hearing people's feedback on this one.  :nod:

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Offline Eric Low

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2017, 09:42:37 PM »
Not sure what light in the front end means? Chine?  I recommend a hydraulic jack mostly to adjust for conditions.....heavy seas or shallow water. A manual jack can be tweaked for best everyday use.

Offline bullet20dc

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2017, 06:27:52 AM »
you're not light in the front  you're heavy in the rear    Yes a hydraulic plate will help with getting on plane faster but thats expensive Thats not really its function but a side affect  Yes you can dump it deep to get  you up in the rough stuff but mostly used to get higher up on the transom to reduce drag and increase speed .or run in the skinny stuff.  why not just set up the motor correctly.   Possibly a set of wedges would help to tuck u under and get you on the pad or near the pad where the trim will help.  We run almost the same boat with a single talon but 5 batteries and  has no problem responding to trim adjustments.  you didn't say if you're running a fixed or manual  10 inch set back jack-plate     almost a necessity on that rig.  are you sure the trim unit is working under load. ,  What exactly happens when u trim out.,  are you throwing a tail , do the rpms run up and no speed gain  hows the water pressure at speed.  all questions that need answering
   setting up a motor correctly is more then bolting it on  starting it up and go for a ride.   prop ,  cup and  pitch all play a part plus height and set back,  tuck  and cav plate types help too.

just suggested starting point only

26 P x 14 1/2 3 blade SS
10 inch manual set back plate
3 1/2 inches below pad
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Offline Jig Man

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2017, 02:13:41 PM »
OK Bullet it is heavy in the back end. 

I have raised the motor several times to get the best p2p that I can.  It comes up good and runs fine (70 mph at 6,000 rpms and 20+ pounds of water pressure).  My problem is the thing wants to porpoise at any speed under 40 if I trim it at all.  It tends to porpoise at speeds lower than 40 with the motor tucked all the way under.  I was hoping the hydro jack plate would allow me to have more control of the bow at lower speeds and stop the porpoising problem. 

An added benefit might be lowering the jack to allow the poles and motor to clear my garage door.  Now I have to take the transom saver off, trim the motor down and partially deploy the poles to clear the opening going in or out of the garage.
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Offline frugalangler

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2017, 02:19:56 PM »

Wow! If I recall, one of the comments made by @frugalangler recently mentioned that there will be cases where the trim will only be used a very small amount in some instances. Maybe yours is one of those?


I doubt it, I'm with Charlie on this one, need more data to narrow down what's going on, but my suspicion would be it needs a J/P if not got one, set up correctly, and then see what's up. His suggested set point is right on for that boat to start, I've set up a couple in our club and that's where we started. the SS prop to start with would be either a Tempest Plus (about the best 3-blade for the price going) or a Fury 3, but some boats just don't respond to the Fury the way you'd expect. IF you start w/ the 26P get data on RPM vs. Speed (GPS) vs. water pressure with your normal running load at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) - I really suspect you're gonna be low on RPM from what that motor should spin at WOT, but that all depends on your running load. If your trim IS working correctly and you still can't get into the trim a little at 25+ without the bow pointing at the moon, then you might need some negative wedge to tuck the motor under more - make sure when you are launching (taking off, not unloading from trailer) that your motor is trimmed ALL the way down, many make the mistake not doing that thinking trim doesn't need a lot of adjustment (trim is something you are ALWAYS adjusting on a bass boat) - that boat will launch and the bow will roll over (come down level) within about 4 seconds if set up correctly, and then adding trim once you're underway and accelerating you should from my experience be about 3/4 +/- 1/8th of max trim running on plane.

The other question? what is your tackle load and where are/is it stored, you'd be surprised how much weight soft plastics add.
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Offline frugalangler

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2017, 02:28:28 PM »
I have raised the motor several times

OK, so it does have a manual J/P, and porpoising can frequently be caused by trim/height not being optimum, which a Hydro J/P would solve as well as your other issues of parking. Your speed and RPM and H2O sound good at WOT, but plunging would help at lower speeds with both handling and I'd suspect the porpoising also.

And, why do you necessarily think you need to add in trim below 40? The more keel in the water at slow speed will give you more cornering control since the bow will bite better and react to motor power? I've honestly only driven one boat that NEEDED trim at low speed - my CAT hull, because of exactly the reason above, with 2 keels in the water, turning the motor leaned the boat and the keel would bite and turn abruptly, requiring rapid counter steering, but trimming up AND raising the engine on that boat will allow it to be controlled, kinda opposite what you'd expect.
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Offline Jig Man

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2017, 08:53:13 PM »
(And, why do you necessarily think you need to add in trim below 40?)  Because it feels like it is plowing?
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Offline Curt

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2017, 10:40:16 AM »
I have to admit that all of these jackplate/performance discussions have helped me to finally start to understand all of the various aspects of setting a boat up properly for top performance.

Thank you to all of you who have been posting helpful tips and suggestions  :thumbup:

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Offline bullet20dc

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Re: Hydraulic jackplate school me
« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2017, 05:17:39 PM »
ok first im hearing about porpoising  so Ill explain what causes it
1.     a bent keel  take a string and go from enter of the pad to the first rise of the bow and make sure the keel is straight  no banana bend in it  I doubt this is the cause but I have pulled my hair out on 2 boats now that were stored on crap trailers for a long time and it actually cause this.  No fix for it tho

2     boat tried to rise on the pad and prop loses bite drops the bow and the whole process starts again   up   drop uo drop feels like porpoising but its really not by definition   caused but several things,    not enough set back,    not enough cup in prop, ,motor too high blades on prop nicked badly or bent,     at low speeds and gettin on plane faster actually the easiest fix believe it or not on that rigs setup is a hydrofoil type  plate add on   put one on SBL's nitro and made a huge difference. Ugly as he!! but the performance diff is worth it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SE-Sport-300-High-Performance-Hydrofoil-Used/332083706486?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dde76db5a89a24b6eb54277491458ee62%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152414208423

  at high speed  lets say above 40  cup, prop , setback, motor depth all need to be corrected

3.    driver error  way to much trim or trim switch isnt stopping when let go of the button 
Ranger Z521C w 250 SHO

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