Picked myself up a classic - now the fun begin!

[pprice01]

It wouldn't hurt to do a post-purchase routine that includes preventative change of the thermostats and water pump impeller just to ensure all is good for you.

What he said!

I’m going to run it down to the mechanic on Monday and have them give it a once-over.  This is for peace of mind and to pay them something for all of the advice, assistance and time they generously gave to me while I was researching, learning, and selecting my used boat.  Sort of an appreciation and relationship-building gesture.

They told me yesterday that my motor does have thermostats and that it won’t start peeing out until it comes up to temperature.  Also that if it does start to get hot he motor alarm will sound and that I can easily leave it running in the dog ears for 5 minutes without a high risk of overheating.

Projects tackled so far:

1.  Reword the 24v system as the previous owner bought new batteries and jumped them incorrectly - now the trolling motor works!

2.  Repair the hinge on the center-bow storage locker.  The rivets has all broken off buried in the lid so that was a treat.

3.  Sand the pedestal seat post bases and base receiver holes to make them easier to insert and remove.  They are still tight however - any ideas?  I want them tight, but they are too tight.  They have plastic bushings in the base and the previous owner told me that they were never removed in 20+ years and had basically become welded into their bases.  So when he had to remove them to take his wife out he had a ‘difficult’ time and I want to bring it back to new condition.  Buy replacement pedestal posts and plastic bushings for the bases or?


Thanks everyone for all the help.

Paul




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[Curt]

Sounds like you're definitely headed in the right direction with everything!

Regarding the pedestal poles and bases, etc., sanding them is a good start. Maybe sand them a bit more and then coat them with some light wax (rub candle wax on them) or put a light film of silicone spray on them.

Once you get them working the way you want, be sure to remove them frequently so they don't do the same thing to you they did to the former owner! 

[pprice01]

Sounds like you're definitely headed in the right direction with everything!

Regarding the pedestal poles and bases, etc., sanding them is a good start. Maybe sand them a bit more and then coat them with some light wax (rub candle wax on them) or put a light film of silicone spray on them.

Once you get them working the way you want, be sure to remove them frequently so they don't do the same thing to you they did to the former owner! 

Thank You.  Good ideas.  I did spray them with silicon spray before I put them back in, will see how they come out and likely given them another round of sanding.


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[Jig Man]

I had that kind of pedestal and base setup in my Champion.  It was a pain and I had to keep working on it all the time until I finally changed out the bases and to different pedestals.

[pprice01]

Next question - Adding a disconnect to the battery system.

Currently I have a 24v setup for the TM and a separate 12v for the main motor.

How should I wire in a disconnect for when I am done using the boat and it goes into storage for a couple of weeks?

Also, when I want to engage the onboard charger, do I need to remove any wires from the batteries?  I’ve read that I should disconnect the negative form the cranking battery.

Lastly, my accessories all seem to be wired to my cranking battery - is this appropriate or should they be connected to the TM batteries instead?

Thanks,

Paul


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[frugalangler]

for a simple setup, use a inline breaker for both the 24 volt to trolling motor, and 12 volt to the boat, but leave the cables to the engine hard connected, you don't want a breaker on those, the engine is fused on it's own. Then, just trip the breakers - they (if you use marine style) will have a little trip button for this purpose, so they make a nice disconnect - that's what I've got on my Ranger.

Now, if you want to get fancy, there is a marine dual battery switch that can be also used as a disconnect for the engine battery, plus it makes it so if your cranking battery goes dead during the day, a twist of the switch puts the lower 12V battery from the troller string in parallel with the engine battery as a jump start, I've got that also on both my boats, fortunately I've only used once time, but it saved a tournament bag from being disqualified due to a no-start at the end of the day.

[pprice01]

for a simple setup, use a inline breaker for both the 24 volt to trolling motor, and 12 volt to the boat, but leave the cables to the engine hard connected, you don't want a breaker on those, the engine is fused on it's own. Then, just trip the breakers - they (if you use marine style) will have a little trip button for this purpose, so they make a nice disconnect - that's what I've got on my Ranger.

Now, if you want to get fancy, there is a marine dual battery switch that can be also used as a disconnect for the engine battery, plus it makes it so if your cranking battery goes dead during the day, a twist of the switch puts the lower 12V battery from the troller string in parallel with the engine battery as a jump start, I've got that also on both my boats, fortunately I've only used once time, but it saved a tournament bag from being disqualified due to a no-start at the end of the day.

I have been researching what I believe to be the second option from what you’ve suggested - thank you for the info.  I’m seeing the red switches that rotate to select the batteries.  When you get a chance could you send a photo for how you wired yours?

Also, is there any issue with charging the batteries with everything connected?

Thanks again!


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[Curt]

No issues with charging with everything connected.

Running all of the accessories from the starting battery is pretty standard. That's how I've run all of my boats for the last 30 years or more. Never had an issue with a dead cranking battery. Just make sure you have a good, strong cranker and you should be good to go.

And, no, there is no need to remove any wires from any of the batteries when charging, and no need to disconnect the negative from the cranking battery when charging. 

[Nightmare]

Only thing that I know of, regarding disconnecting anything when charging, is some people claim you need to disconnect the trolling motor. That can be done simply by unplugging up front. They also claim that turning OFF the switch on the foot pedal is not adequate.

I don't recall why this is said to be necessary and don't have an opinion either way. I, personally, don't do this as I've never experienced an issue over 28 years of boat-owning. Not saying I'm right or they're wrong. Just comes to mind in this conversation and for your consideration.
 

[Curt]

Regarding what @Nightmare just mentioned, I ALWAYS unplug my trolling motor when I leave the lake, for two reasons.

First, it prevents the oddball chance of something weird happening and having the TM somehow turning on while I'm driving down the road. I know the chances are slim for this to happen, but I do know of at least one person who had this happen, and it chewed his TM prop up pretty good, as well as leaving some ugly scars on the his bow.

I also don't want to have the TM plugged in when I charge the batteries because I remember some old school info that somehow gave me the impression that it was a good practice. Not sure why, but I never questioned it and wasn't willing to take a chance finding out the hard way that it was correct info.

Lastly, I leave my TM unplugged when charging, just in case there is any kind of voltage/power surge. I don't want it burning out my TM. This could happen if there was a lightning strike while I was charging my batteries.

However, I typically unplug my charger once the batteries are charged up and only plug the charger back in the evening before going fishing. I also unplug it if there is even a slight chance of a T storm.

With all of that said, I have noticed a trend now that has eliminated the TM plug up front and the TM is hard wired into the boat's electrical system. So this would eliminate the ability to unplug it. 

[Jig Man]

I don't unplug anything any time.  I do have 2 shut offs for the trolling motor and shut both off before I leave the lake,  Like frug mentioned, I have the master shut off switch installed.  I turn it off when I get home.  It kills all of the power to the boat (motor, tmotor, antenna, chart plotters, power poles).  I have 3 or 4 items which draw current even when turned off and the master switch is necessary to shut them down.  After it is turned off I plug in my charger and forget about it until I go fishing again.

If you have flooded cell batteries, you should open them at least monthly and check the water level.  If any are getting low add distilled water. 

[pprice01]

Wow, thanks for the data everyone!  I really appreciate it.


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[Curt]

Wow, thanks for the data everyone!  I really appreciate it.

You're welcome! That's what we're here for!

[frugalangler]

When you get a chance could you send a photo for how you wired yours?

Ok, here's how I wire in a battery selector switch, and which one I use.
the first is the switch
the second is my diagram
the third is the basic premise of an A-B switch

you'll notice a couple details please, there are ususally 2 cables to the engine, the high current starter cable, and a lower current operations cable. All of the power to run the engine usually comes from that smaller cable, even the start switch, etc. They both should be directly connected to either the common or vessel positive. EVERYTHING else for the vessel (livewells, lights, etc.) should only be connected to the vessel battery. The trolling motor is only connected to the trolling batteries.
part of the reason for the above, you want the engine to be able to run from either battery (or both), but the vessel accessories should only be run on the vessel battery. if you have a 'dead battery' or 'no start', you can do one of the following 2 procedures. move the selector to 'BOT"H', start the engine, let it run for a few minutes, then move the selctor to A (vessel) and see if the engine continues to run and your voltmeter (You do have one on board, right?) reads that the engine is charging the vessel battery

Hope this helps someone, it's worked for me for over 30 years of boating

[frugalangler]

No issues with charging with everything connected.

Running all of the accessories from the starting battery is pretty standard. That's how I've run all of my boats for the last 30 years or more. Never had an issue with a dead cranking battery. Just make sure you have a good, strong cranker and you should be good to go.

And, no, there is no need to remove any wires from any of the batteries when charging, and no need to disconnect the negative from the cranking battery when charging. 

Absolutely correct!