Picked myself up a classic - now the fun begin!

[pprice01]

what products are u using? you may have to be a little more aggressive w/ the compound, but not too much or you'll start exposing flakes - not good

I used the Meguire’s 3-part fiberglass/gelcoat restoration kit.


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[pprice01]

I originally considered having my detailer color sand and polish it but I read specifically in the manual that it should not be color sanded


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[Curt]

Check out http://protecproducts.com/

Joe's stuff is some of the best on the market!

@Basscat1

[pprice01]

Check out http://protecproducts.com/

Joe's stuff is some of the best on the market!

@Basscat1

Interesting.  Thanks Curt.  Virtually the same boat he used in the video and he wetsanded it, even though the actual Ranger manual says not to.

I polisher the transom tonight and will check it tomorrow.  It wasn’t as bad as the sides so if the Meguires doesn’t do a good job I may sub the job to my detailer to wetsand it.


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[Jig Man]

When you get all the oxidation buffed out you may want to find a good polymer sealant to put on the boat to help keep the finish.  I have been using Bow to Stern for several years and am happy with the results that I had seen.

[Curt]

he wetsanded it, even though the actual Ranger manual says not to.

I've heard of a lot of guys who wet sand boats when the finish is really bad. @Hydeshydro @Matt@Fractures and @Basscat1 all do this, I believe.

[pprice01]

he wetsanded it, even though the actual Ranger manual says not to.

I've heard of a lot of guys who wet sand boats when the finish is really bad. @Hydeshydro @Matt@Fractures and @Basscat1 all do this, I believe.

I believe it, as it was my initial instinct to do this as well.  The question is really how low of a grit to start - 1000? To keep it at a safe but effective level.




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[frugalangler]

I believe it, as it was my initial instinct to do this as well.  The question is really how low of a grit to start - 1000? To keep it at a safe but effective level.

I usually error on the safe side, start finer and if not satisfactory go more aggressive, then when I get it honed in at a beginning grit do the job

[Curt]

@frugalangler hit the nail on the head. Start super, super fine and work your way up (more coarse), only if necessary.

Sometimes the least abrasive is all it will take. And more often than not, you start with super fine and get finer with the grit as you go.

Here's a video for you that mentions specific grits and all of the subsequent steps.

[pprice01]

Anyone have an idea what this 3-way switch is supposed to run?  The labels you see below tie to the bottom row of switches.




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[Curt]

Many boats come with a switch or two that is not wired to anything at all. It's there to be used in the event you install a new accessory that requires a switch, so you can add it without having to buy a switch for it. You can just wire it to the existing spare switch(es).

Maybe that's what this is for. Have you looked underneath to see if there are any wires attached to it?

[frugalangler]

Also, the way it's labeled, is it a second interior light for different compartments, kinda implied by the ones to the left for 2 bilge pumps which is a Ranger standard.

[pprice01]

Also, the way it's labeled, is it a second interior light for different compartments, kinda implied by the ones to the left for 2 bilge pumps which is a Ranger standard.

Thanks all.  The upper left switch allows power to the surface temp switch.   There is only one bulge pump that runs off the lower-left switch.  I need to get uber the dash to see what is hooked up to the mystery switch, if anything.


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[pprice01]

Anyone know if they still sell parts to replace the valve that controls flow to the livewells?  Even when they are set to empty they still fill a few inches with water.  Thanks.


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[bullet20dc]

yep and i would add a lower unit oil change to that list,  check for water intrusion,  oil will be the color of yoo hoo or coffee with cream in it.  If so change out the seals on the prop shaft and impeller housing. do not reuse the drain and fill o-rings.