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Installing My New Helix 8

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Curt:
Oh, and I will also pull rope through with this next wire run, to replace the rope that I will be using to pull these wires through.

Curt:
Well, this afternoon I fired up the heater in my garage and went to work on getting all of the necessary wires pulled through my hull to get me moving forward with the installation again.

First, my trusty nylon rope!



Next, I pulled the wire through to the console, where I left a large loop that I will cut and install a fuse panel. Then, I completed the pull all the way through to the bow.



While I was at it, I also pulled the 15 ft. Ethernet cable from the console to the bow, pictured here.



Tomorrow I hope to get all of the connectors and terminal ends on the 12 gauge wire, as well as adding the adapter cables to the Ethernet cable, and installing the mounting bracket!

More pics to come.  :nod:

By the way, my trusty propane heater took the temperature in my garage from a frigid 40 degrees, all the way to a comfy 55! It was almost the perfect temperature for the work I was doing.

Curt:
Did some more work on this today. Trying to get it wrapped up!

Got the mounting bracket screwed down this weekend, but didn't get much past that.




I was determined to get this thing done today. And here it is  (yes)




Here's another angle.




I tried playing with tilting it at different angles.




Glad this part is all done!!  (yes)

Nightmare:
Gettin' there  :thumbup:

So, is that your new ducer cable that you have zip-tied to the tm cable sheath - or is that the old ducer that you haven't taken off yet? Reason I ask is, I've seen some rigging where the guy run the cable up the shaft to the head - and then down the arm to the hinge point - then along the base to a point close to the mfd. It then jumps over to the mfd.

In my mind (for better or worse) that approach removes at least 50% of the ducer cable being a potential receiver of interference from the tm power lines. Also appears it would negate potential snags on the ducer cable.

Now this all comes from the person that literally spiral-wrapped his ducer cable to follow the tm cable (in the 'valley' of the sheath). Reasoning at the time being in the 'valley' protected the ducer cable from getting hung up on stuff.....and it took up a lot of excess ducer cable length since I was using a transom ducer on the tm. Fortunately and surprisingly enough, the only interference I experience is at the instant I hit the GO button on the pedal - and it's pretty minor so don't really think much about it.

Just throwin' it out there.  (shrug)

Curt:

--- Quote ---the guy run the cable up the shaft to the head - and then down the arm to the hinge point - then along the base to a point close to the mfd. It then jumps over to the mfd.
--- End quote ---

@Nightmare Thanks for the suggestions!

To answer your question, yes, that is the cable for my new transducer.

Regarding your suggestion as to how you saw someone else rig their cable, when you say that he ran it from the head down the control arm to the hinge point, I'm assuming that you're referring to the top half of the trolling motor bracket.

If so, how did they secure the cable to the arm? And on my setup, once I'm at the base, I wouldn't need to go much further to get to the Helix.

I'm all for trying a new, better way of rigging it. BUt I'd like to know a tad more before I try it  :thumbup:

Oh, and what is mfd. that you referred to?  (shrug)

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