Bass Boat Forums
Bass Boat Mods => General Boat Mods => Topic started by: Curt on March 15, 2015, 10:44:05 PM
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Here's a question for any of you who have installed a recessed trolling motor pedal tray in the front deck of your boat.
I know there are many different brands out there, and I also know that the trays are of varying quality.
And lastly, I know that some are plastic, some are metal and maybe there are some made of other materials.
What should I look for when buying one to install in my boat in the near future? Is metal better than plastic? Is there a brand that stands out with regard to quality? Which one do you prefer and why?
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When I had my Champ, I went with the Trollwell since it was fiberglass and I could get it to match my boat color.
My father is wanting me to put one in the Ranger Cherokee, and I think I will go with an aluminum one for that, not sure which yet.
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When I had my Champ, I went with the Trollwell since it was fiberglass and I could get it to match my boat color.
My father is wanting me to put one in the Ranger Cherokee, and I think I will go with an aluminum one for that, not sure which yet.
Thanks @JackJ (y)
Anyone else??
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Metal!
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Metal!
@Bullet3119 I was leaning toward metal. Can you tell me why you prefer metal trays, and maybe give me a brand name? Thanks!
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Mike Hill @ unique boat products. He can powdercoat it whatever color you want. Won't fade or crack. I guess it's all personal preference, it's just a better quality in my opinion.
Mike Hill 502-817-6241
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Curt I've had mine so long that I don't remember which it was. I do know I had to specify that it fit a MG instead of an MK. It is one of the best additions that I have ever made to a boat. I didn't have the cojones to cut the deck on my Champ so I hired it out.
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Thanks @Jig Man (y)
Cutting that hole will probably cause me some anxious moments LOL (giggle)
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I went with the EZ-Troll tray for my boat.
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/EZ-Troll_Recess_Tray/descpage-EZTRT.html?from=nebass
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I bought mine through amazon, it's a rod saver and it's all metal. It's a real good tray.
I believe it's called a rod saver flat foot.
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Since we have added some new members since I originally posted this, can I get some more feedback on this question?
I wasn't able to get this mod done last year, so I'm hoping to make it happen this year now. Any and all feedback is appreciated :nod:
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I went with metal unit since I am NOT a lightweight. ::) Kind of a no-name but well made with adequate flange and number of screw holes. Think it cost me like $57 plus shipping.
A couple of hints: Be very sure of where you want to cut that hole - got mine a little close to the seat post but it's tolerable. Plus, I can always fire up the welder and make a custom setback adapter for the 3/4" pin mount. (shrug)
Secondly, do your best to figure out how much deck thickness you're going to be cutting thru... Took me 3 different tries with 3 different saws before I was finally thru the 3+" deck. (fp) And then I still couldn't figure why it was presenting such a challenge to get that plug out of the deck. After much blue air being generated on my part and getting the first chunk pried out with a gorilla bar after cutting the chunk into multiple portions, I found that the flotation foam filling the nose was literally gluing the plug in. (whew)
Crazy - but has really went towards giving my back a break from the Capt Morgan pose.... :thumbup:
One upshot was I did this in conjunction with the re-carpet job so I cut the hole after removing old and prior to putting in new carpet. Do something to seal up the cut in the deck wood before installing the tray. I just applied copious amount of carpet glue before wrapping the new carpet down the cut and then installing the tray.
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@Nightmare Thanks for all the info. Truly appreciated!
My G3 has aluminum decks, so thickness shouldn't be an issue when it comes to cutting through it.
Also, I never use my seat and pole. I find that it gets in the way more than anything. But I will definitely keep the position of the seat in mind when cutting the hole, just in case I use the seat and pole in the future, or if I happen to sell the boat at some point.
Do you happen to remember where you bought yours and how long ago it was? Everything I've looked at so far has been in the $129 - $150 range, which I think is a but much for something that's either stamped or injection molded. (fp)
Thanks in advance :thumbup:
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http://www.wholesalemarine.com/recessed-trolling-motor-pedal-pan.html (http://www.wholesalemarine.com/recessed-trolling-motor-pedal-pan.html)
Must have been a dyslexic moment.... $74, not $47. Still a good price. (shrug)
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My Gambler came with one already built in from the factory. Whatever brand you go with its well worth it! No more Capt. Morgan. My old Ranger did not have one and it was a back and legs killer. Shoulda put one in it. Your lower body will thank you!
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if you put one in curt...have it coated with that stuff they coat truck beds with can color match it....my sons work trucks are all done on the lower side and around the wheel wells and beds to match looks good....my boat trailer is coated from stratos they call it armor coat.....oh line-x is whats on my sons truck....
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@Nightmare Thank you!
That's the best price I've seen yet. It looks like stamped steel. Is that the case? If so, have you seen any evidence of rust yet?
And did it come with any hardware at all? Screws, drain pipe, template, etc.?
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I did the opposite of nitey i originally put mine too far forward cause i never used a seat or seat pole. Well im older now and on the rough water occasion I need the pole to keep me in the boat
The flat foot was too far forward so I ended moving it back 6 inches and repairing the deck when I recarpeted lst year Long story short measure measure measure sit in the seat stand against the pole even if you dont use it now Oh yeah drink that beer AFTER the job is done
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@Nightmare It looks like stamped steel. Is that the case? If so, have you seen any evidence of rust yet?
And did it come with any hardware at all? Screws, drain pipe, template, etc.?
It could be steel since it has some heft to it but don't know - never checked it with a magnet....no rust indicated...got what appears to be a good protective coating.
No - does not come with hardware which didn't affect me since I'm the type that usually "adjusts" the original scheme to my own tastes. Can't remember concerning template...don't use 'em....again because I adjust plans to my own tastes and know how to use a square, protractor, etc.
Like Bullet, make sure where you want it. I messed with standing on the front deck for over an hour and still managed to miscalculate where best position was - go figure :o . Maybe go look at a factory install and measure from post to pit. If you're average height, should be close.
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Long story short measure measure measure sit in the seat stand against the pole even if you dont use it now
@bullet20dc Thanks! That's what I was figuring on doing, just in case I do use the pole later or sell the boat to someone who wants to use it. :thumbup:
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@Nightmare It looks like stamped steel. Is that the case? If so, have you seen any evidence of rust yet?
And did it come with any hardware at all? Screws, drain pipe, template, etc.?
It could be steel since it has some heft to it but don't know - never checked it with a magnet....no rust indicated...got what appears to be a good protective coating.
No - does not come with hardware which didn't affect me since I'm the type that usually "adjusts" the original scheme to my own tastes. Can't remember concerning template...don't use 'em....again because I adjust plans to my own tastes and know how to use a square, protractor, etc.
Like Bullet, make sure where you want it. I messed with standing on the front deck for over an hour and still managed to miscalculate where best position was - go figure :o . Maybe go look at a factory install and measure from post to pit. If you're average height, should be close.
OK. Thanks. No problem with no hardware. I can get stainless screws right down the street from the local marine dealer. As for the template, I'd prefer that they include on, but if they don't, I'll have no problem figuring it out :thumbup:
With this particular model, the price puts it within my budget for the immediate future, so I hope to have this done soon :nod:
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http://www.wholesalemarine.com/recessed-trolling-motor-pedal-pan.html (http://www.wholesalemarine.com/recessed-trolling-motor-pedal-pan.html)
Must have been a dyslexic moment.... $74, not $47. Still a good price. (shrug)
Well, I just ordered this tray! :nod:
I went back and read the description again and saw that it's actually powder coated aluminum. So for $75, it's a steal of a price :thumbup:
Supposed to arrive on Wednesday sometime. Not sure if I'll have the time to install it before the weekend or not, but it'll be in the deck soon enough. Bye bye aching back o/
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The tray arrived this morning! :nod:
I really want to get it installed before the tourney this weekend (Saturday). Just not sure if I'll have the time to get it done between now and then. Gonna try though!
I'll try to get pics of the process and post them later on.
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Well, I spent a couple hours working on my new trolling motor tray last night.
I'm about 3/4 of the way through it as of this morning. My old jigsaw decided to go up in smoke (literllay (giggle) ) about half way through the cutting, so I had to run out and buy a new one.
I finished cutting the hole and I'm now working on removing the necessary flotation foam and doing some light filing of the hole in a couple spots to make sure the tray fits in there snug, but not too snug.
I'll be running out to grab the necessary screws, washers, etc. a bit later this morning so I can finish it up today and be able to test it out tomorrow during my tourney.
This pic shows the hole before it was completely done.
(https://www.bassboatboards.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fbassfishingphotos.com%2Fimages%2F1%2F193%2F00000004.jpg&hash=62d95ac020fee396b5e4f3885454acf4c27a4de3)
More pics to come when it's finished :nod:
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It looks like you have a number of horizontal structural reinforcements (square tubing) showing, that you've cut - correct me if wrong here. You may want to evaluate some sort of vertical reinforcement if so - or your pan may become a storm grate, ending up being a sag in the middle of the deck.
Better to stay ahead of the issue than have to take apart to address later. You got a better perspective there than I do from here.... ;) (whew)
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what Nitey said when I did mine I had to cut thru a structural member going left to right. I legged it on either side and crossed the two legs deep enough under the tray and glassed it all in. Dont skimp on this or in about 3 years you will wish you had. Im only 175 lbs but a say stouter guy (fat :rolleyes: ) will bow that deck and the lids wont close dont care what make it is.
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scary I bet id be shitin bricks doing that....dam curt
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Got it done!
I have to say I'm really, really happy with the way it turned out
And I'll get to try it out Saturday for a tourney.
(https://www.bassboatboards.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20160514%2F48e83a2d77b3b776272a3f3c05ffc50c.jpg&hash=95b60e66d7eb5bac59dc9ef82f110938de4cf9ba)
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Yes, there were a couple of supports that got cut, but I checked it out and there are other supports immediately surrounding that opening, so it's still pretty sturdy.
I'll keep an eye on it, though, and watch for any signs of sagging over the next couple of months.
And, yes, cutting that deck was a scary proposition (whew)
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Oh, and the tray I bought is all welded aluminum. Its pretty rigid, so it won't be flexing much, if any. So that's a big plus too.
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looks great......you did a good job.....
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looks great......you did a good job.....
Thank you :)