Bass Boat Forums
Bass Boat Forums (by boat brand) => Xpress Bass Boats Forums => Topic started by: hotchkisshammer on January 01, 2017, 06:15:52 PM
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Hey guys. New to the forum. Lookin to buy a new x19 n lookin for a little advice on what hp to go with... leaning toward merc 150 4 stroke or 175 pro xs... this will be my 1st bass boat. Right now i have 17' grizzly with a 40 jet so in in new water on knowin what to get. Gonna be runnin dual power poles n ive been told that affects performance some. Opinions welcome....
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Welcome to the boards. I always suggest maxing out on the HP unless tourney rules say otherwise. I wished I'd got a 300 instead of the 250 on mine.
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@hotchkisshammer Welcome to BBB!
As @transamz9 said, I always recommend a boat buyer get whatever the maximum HP is that the boat is rated for. So if it's rated for a 200, buy it with that!
It's always better to buy the bigger motor than to not buy it and wish you had bought it (yes)
By the way, Xpress makes some great boats. I like them a lot!
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Yeah i normally feel that way too. Just feel 200 is alot of motor for a 19ft tin boat. I dont need to be the fastest guy on the lake, but i would like to hear from a few x19 owners to know what they're gettin out of whatever motor they have on theirs...
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I don't own an Xpress boat, but I have a G3. Mine is the HP180, with a Yamaha 150 HP outboard.
I get 53+ MPH out of mine with a manual jackplate. I haven't spent a lot of time making precise adjustments to my jackpplate, so I don't know if I have it setup optimally. But I do know that I'm glad I opted for the 150 HP since that's what my boat is rated for.
I also think my prop is pitched incorrectly, at 19. I think a 21 would be much better for top end without losing holeshot, but I don't want to spend $600 just to find out.
An X19 with a 200 is probably a 60+ MPH boat. If you're not worried about being the fastest, go with the 150 HP and save some cash. But keep in mind that if you add two Talons or Power Poles to the boat you may want that 200 HP to compensate for the weight of those hanging off your transom. Just some food for thought. (hmm)
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Yeah i normally feel that way too. Just feel 200 is alot of motor for a 19ft tin boat. I dont need to be the fastest guy on the lake, but i would like to hear from a few x19 owners to know what they're gettin out of whatever motor they have on theirs...
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It's not always about being the fastest boat, but having the reserve power to get out of trouble when needed. To me an under-powered boat is unsafe on big water with lots of other boats, but if you know you will only (likely not) be on small water then less could be best, but in the long run think about resale also, under-powered boats don't sell as well.
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better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it. I make a bunch o cash repowering older rigs because guys make that mistake . Go with simple math. you make payments on it for say 5 years avg. the diff in 150 and 200 in total over 5 years is about 20.00 a month, The cost of repowering after you realize you made a mistake is about 10,000 and trade in. and thats not financed.
Those talons on the back affect hole shot big time. Its like taking off with drift socks out there ill u get that drag out of the water. believe me I know. I installed 2 on mine an lost about 4 seconds to get on plane.
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@frugalangler and @bullet20dc have made some great points. :nod:
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@frugalangler and @bullet20dc have made some great points. :nod:
Been there, done that, but traded the sled rather than re-powering it - a 200 on a 21 foot glass boat just didn't work!!!
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I made the mistake of underpowering on my first bass boat. It was Tracker Pro 17. Came with a 40 HP instead of the 60 that it was rated for. Obviously on that type of boat we're not talking about 70 MPH. But even on entry level boats like that, it's still much better to buy the max the boat is rated for.
On my two other boats since then I bought the max HP for the boat. Never regretted it (nope)
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believe me I know from what I speak been doing boats for 40 years Buy the biggest u can put on her even if you have to skimp on other options to make it happen prices of motors are going up every year and after you figure out the "dam I screwed up" factor they went up a few thousand, especially if you wanna stay with 2 stroke motors. they are gonna go sky high really soon.
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I get what u guys are layin out, and i been there. But heres what has me thinking on it so much. You can pull up youtube videos of an x19 with a 200 sho doin over 80mph. Thats what i would call excessive... you can see the reading on his hds plain as day. That is what has me thinking i can be satisfied with less... jury just isnt in yet.
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Do you run your vehicle as fast as it will go every time you drive it?
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I get what u guys are layin out, and i been there. But heres what has me thinking on it so much. You can pull up youtube videos of an x19 with a 200 sho doin over 80mph. Thats what i would call excessive... you can see the reading on his hds plain as day. That is what has me thinking i can be satisfied with less... jury just isnt in yet.
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Ok sounds like he either has the GPS set to kph or photoshopped (giggle) No 200 sho is gonna do 80 in stock form dont care if its on a 17fter If by chance he has a warmed over motor maybe or a nox setup if you see that utube video again see if you can see the rpms Im not doubting what You saw to be what you saw im doubting the accuracy of the video. If its real that would be the fastest 200 Ive ever seen with the exception of on an early Alison
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Looking at the X19 listings on the BBC site, nearly all with a 200 list their top speed at 69-70. With a 150, right at 60.
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and we all know that sellers never exaggerate their top speed look at the BBC Triton forum and see how many 85 mph tritons there are or Rangers that do 80 Ill give ya that there are some exceptions to some of them 70 with a 150 and a 5800 limiter is a bit much but might be doable more like 60 65 ish with a really good driver and a pad boat but that extra 10 mph is really hard to achieve with a stock lower unit, no low water pickup, a prop capable of letting the motor turn the rpms and a non hydraulic jack plate to achieve 80 u sacrifice hole shot without any of those option.
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Well if u guys are right then the 200 is what ill go with. Idk what the guy on youtube has done to his boat but he's haulin. Those videos are pretty easy to find, but he dont show anything on any of them except him runnin down the lake flat stick. Looks like he likes to ride more than fish.
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If I were you I'd want to run some of those boats with different motors before buying and especially before adding the weight of power poles and their controllers to the back of the boat. You may wind up with a very light front end.
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Jig man is right on Never buy a boat without trying it out first Thats a lot of money to lay out on others opinions. Buyers remorse is ok if you buy a rod and you end up not liking it but a major investment like a boat is a lot to live with if you are dissappointed.
You woudlnt buy a car or truck without driving it and a boat could end up costing more.
Weight distribution is critical in those rigs and addin poles on the back changes its handling considerably if incorrectly installed especially Talons like I found out.
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Looking at the X19 listings on another site, nearly all with a 200 list their top speed at 69-70. With a 150, right at 60.
That would make perfect sense.
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Looking at the X19 listings on another site, nearly all with a 200 list their top speed at 69-70. With a 150, right at 60.
That would make perfect sense.
exactly it sounds like u found a site with honest folks not with extra testosterone flowing a typical 150 carb motor basically on any bass boat is 60 62 mph and typically for every 10hp add 2 mph kind of a rule of thumb but again that 80mph barrier is a tough nut to crack you deff need some bucks invested on top of the cost of the motor
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a typical 150 carb motor basically on any bass boat is 60 62 mph
That's a great rule of thumb!
So in light of that, my G3 HP180 with a 150 HP getting 53 MPH is way too slow, especially considering the light weight of the boat. This tells me that there is probably a prop issue.
My prop is a 19 pitch, which I think is way too little. Personally, I think it should be running a 21 or 23, but the factory set it up with a 19, so it has stayed at a 19.
I know that RPMs and some other variables come into play. WOT with the 19 is taching over 6000 RPMs.
I'd love to spend a day sometime this summer with someone who knows and understand jackplate adjustments, etc. with a 21 and a 23 pitch prop, testing my boat and its setup to see what could be done to get it performing better overall.
Not that I am trying to break records with it. I just want to get the most out of it that I can with that 150 Yamaha on it.
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sounds like you have that motor sittin a little low on the transom. Too much drag. 3 1/2 inches below the pad from the nose of the bullet to the lowest point on the hull (pad if you have one) is a good avg with out low water pickup. Usually the 3rd hole from the top of the mount is where most end up. Most riigers at boat dealers put them all the way down for a safety factor because they dont know what you are gonna load it up with or how youre gonna use it. Im betting from what you describe as your rpms and pitch youre about 5 inches below. Is it an aluminum prop or SS , 3 blade or 4, added cup , hows the hole shot. With a little more info you could be turning a 21 SS at 6200 and 60 62 mph. With intake scoops and blocking off the top 3 intakes you can get that up to 3 inches above and get a few more mph. Every 1/4 of an inch up makes a HUGE diff believe it or not. I dont know how you use your boat but for all around dependability and if you fish tournys and get a gravity challenged partner (fat) leave it be.
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sounds like you have that motor sittin a little low on the transom. Too much drag. 3 1/2 inches below the pad from the nose of the bullet to the lowest point on the hull (pad if you have one) is a good avg with out low water pickup. Usually the 3rd hole from the top of the mount is where most end up. Most riigers at boat dealers put them all the way down for a safety factor because they dont know what you are gonna load it up with or how youre gonna use it. Im betting from what you describe as your rpms and pitch youre about 5 inches below. Is it an aluminum prop or SS , 3 blade or 4, added cup , hows the hole shot. With a little more info you could be turning a 21 SS at 6200 and 60 62 mph. With intake scoops and blocking off the top 3 intakes you can get that up to 3 inches above and get a few more mph. Every 1/4 of an inch up makes a HUGE diff believe it or not. I dont know how you use your boat but for all around dependability and if you fish tournys and get a gravity challenged partner (fat) leave it be.
If I go to 1.5 inches below on my Z9 I get my fastest speed. Go any higher I lose speed. At 1.5 and a heavy load (passengers) I have a really hard time getting out of the hole without blowing out. I can blow it out at 1.75 below if I go full throttle but I can feather it and get a pretty good hole shot. I didn't raise mine for speed I raised it for handling at speed. Mine came from the factory @ 3.5 below and above 65 it was a hand full. I very rarely run 65.....heck I rarely get over 50 but when I do I don't want to have to fight it. The farthest I've ever went with mine is 1.25 . I still had good H20 pressure with all holes open but I lost a significant amount of speed on top not to mention that I like to never got it to break over coming out of the hole. LOL
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Tranz, that's what adjustable jack's are for, plunge the LU for hole shot, lift the LU for plane speed
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theres adjustable and hydraulic most are adjustable but tools are require hydraulic is the way to go
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sounds like you have that motor sittin a little low on the transom. Too much drag. 3 1/2 inches below the pad from the nose of the bullet to the lowest point on the hull (pad if you have one) is a good avg with out low water pickup. Usually the 3rd hole from the top of the mount is where most end up. Most riigers at boat dealers put them all the way down for a safety factor because they dont know what you are gonna load it up with or how youre gonna use it. Im betting from what you describe as your rpms and pitch youre about 5 inches below. Is it an aluminum prop or SS , 3 blade or 4, added cup , hows the hole shot. With a little more info you could be turning a 21 SS at 6200 and 60 62 mph. With intake scoops and blocking off the top 3 intakes you can get that up to 3 inches above and get a few more mph. Every 1/4 of an inch up makes a HUGE diff believe it or not. I dont know how you use your boat but for all around dependability and if you fish tournys and get a gravity challenged partner (fat) leave it be.
My prop is Stainless. 3 Blades
I have a manual jackplate. When I first installed it, I tried to match the height I had before the jp installation. My first WOT run with it that way resulted in a lot of porpoising and it was extremely prone to blowout on corners.
So I started lowering it a half inch at a time until the porpoising and the blowout went away. Ultimately, the jackplate ended up all the way down. Running it that way gives me a top end speed of 52+ with me and a partner (heavy partner). 95% of the time I fish alone, so I get a bit better performance, at 53+.
I haven't measured the distance from the pad (my boat does have a pad). I just basically kept tweaking until the porpoising and blowout stopped.
Probably the best I will get out of it unless I change props.
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I think you need to go back up a bit and look elsewhere for the porpoise issue, usually trim/load in my experience. That boat should easily run at -3.5" +/- maybe 3/4"
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I think you need to go back up a bit and look elsewhere for the porpoise issue, usually trim/load in my experience.
The porpoising happened if I trimmed up even just the tiniest little bit while on plane.
That boat should easily run at -3.5" +/- maybe 3/4"
Not sure what you mean by that. I'm assuming you're referring to outboard height? As you can tell, I've never gotten too much into the technical aspects of boat performance.
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I think you need to go back up a bit and look elsewhere for the porpoise issue, usually trim/load in my experience.
The porpoising happened if I trimmed up even just the tiniest little bit while on plane.
That boat should easily run at -3.5" +/- maybe 3/4"
Not sure what you mean by that. I'm assuming you're referring to outboard height? As you can tell, I've never gotten too much into the technical aspects of boat performance.
That is correct. He is referring to you prop to pad measurement. On a planing hull especially at slow speeds the trim is very sensitive. I don't even touch my trim until at least 35-40 MPH If I do it will porpoise pretty bad. Even at 40-50 I can't raise my trim very high or it will start to porpoise. Not bad but it will hop some. My boat is very heavy in the front. Raise your plate back up to around 3.5" to start and go from there. You should be running in the mid to high 50's loaded to fish and keep it trimmed down until you get some speed. You have to learn YOUR boat and how it responds. If you give it some trim either bump it back down a couple bumps or speed up a little.
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Curt get some cup added on that prop. porpoising happens when the prop lifts the nose and loses bite an it drops and then starts all over again. I doubt bery much youre experiencing blowout prob mean cavitaion or ventilation, If your pants arent brown it isnt blow out. this happens when the boat and prop lose bite all together and the boat is totally uncontrollable no steering no forward thrust just sliding out of control until it eventually stops Usually at around 85 with a stock torque master and 80 with a std. I guarrentee you will remember that. the boat could even turn sideways and flip thats why over 85 mph you have to go to a sportmaster lower it will hold at a faster speed. \
Now cavitation is when the water stream has tiny bubbles in it and cavitates and actually boils the finish off the prop and lower loss of top speed is kinda the only problem.
Now Im guessing you have a ventilation problem where the rpms go up in the hole shot like a dragster burning rubber then all of a sudden the prop grabs and u get some forward movement. Youre gettin a lot of air in the water stream and the prop isnt biting . you hear a distinct rpm rise and then it drops. Thats a cupping issue or youre too high.
Your settup needs attention You deff arent geting all you can from that setup u have now. height, right prob and maybe a set of wedges to get you tucked under more for the hole shot.
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get some cup added on that prop. porpoising happens when the prop lifts the nose and loses bite an it drops and then starts all over again. I doubt bery much youre experiencing blowout prob mean cavitaion or ventilation, If your pants arent brown it isnt blow out. this happens when the boat and prop lose bite all together and the boat is totally uncontrollable no steering no forward thrust just sliding out of control until it eventually stops Usually at around 85 with a stock torque master and 80 with a std. I guarrentee you will remember that. the boat could even turn sideways and flip thats why over 85 mph you have to go to a sportmaster lower it will hold at a faster speed. \
Now cavitation is when the water stream has tiny bubbles in it and cavitates and actually boils the finish off the prop and lower loss of top speed is kinda the only problem.
Now Im guessing you have a ventilation problem where the rpms go up in the hole shot like a dragster burning rubber then all of a sudden the prop grabs and u get some forward movement. Youre gettin a lot of air in the water stream and the prop isnt biting . you hear a distinct rpm rise and then it drops. Thats a cupping issue or youre too high.
Your settup needs attention You deff arent geting all you can from that setup u have now. height, right prob and maybe a set of wedges to get you tucked under more for the hole shot.
Who you talkin' to?
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Curt he has a rig not doing what its supposed to
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@bullet. Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it :thumbup: