Bass Boat Forums
Bass Boat Forums (by boat brand) => Ranger Bass Boats Forums => Topic started by: pprice01 on January 09, 2018, 09:10:06 AM
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Hi Everyone,
I just picked up my first Ranger! A 1992 392v with a 200HP Mercury XRI 2.5L OB.
I noticed that there is a switch on the dash to select from either the port or starboard tanks as well as a selector ‘dial’? On the front face of the Bench seat base.
Am I right In guessing that the dash switch is only to set the gauge to read from one tank or the other to show the fill level and the ‘dial’ is to actually select which tank to feed the motor from?
They don’t have anything to do with each other, do they? Meaning if the dial is set to port and the switch to starboard it won’t mean anything other than the motor is drawing from the port tank while I’m watching the level on the starboard tank, right?
I’m sure I will have many many questions to come, but I just want to make sure on this for now.
Thanks,
Paul
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I don't have a Ranger but that's the size of it right there. Be nice if they just had the single switch to flip the gauge senders AND electronic valve like used to be on p/u trucks with dual tanks. Don't know anybody ever did that with boats - don't know why not. (shrug)
Welcome aboard, by the way! o/
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@pprice01 Welcome aboard, Paul!
Congrats on the "new" boat. Sounds like a great little project, learning about what it offers and how to use it all :nod:
Be sure to post some pics for us to see! You can upload them and host them on www.bassfishingphotos.com. It's free, and unlike Photo Bucket, it allows third party linking to your pics :thumbup:
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Thanks everyone. I will try to add photos from Tapatalk. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180109/338be7451daf2f1994b8e4fdafe8dba4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180109/a14c5b0915293801ac39a0f0c893219d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180109/8111a1d9c7189b2bfe6719a449960c34.jpg)
Every switch, gauge, and graph (paper-based!) all still work.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180109/5a01ea1a22626d28b202c26320a4dcb3.jpg)
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One of my friends used to have one like that. Lots of good memories, and that bench seat came in handy taking naps in all night tournaments.
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Am I right In guessing that the dash switch is only to set the gauge to read from one tank or the other to show the fill level and the ‘dial’ is to actually select which tank to feed the motor from?
They don’t have anything to do with each other, do they? Meaning if the dial is set to port and the switch to starboard it won’t mean anything other than the motor is drawing from the port tank while I’m watching the level on the starboard tank, right?
You are correct (yes, I've a Ranger set up the same, most all with under seat tanks are that way) that the dial switches the fuel feed to motor, and the switch selects the tank to read level of. Some also have a center off position on the switch.
Enjoy that Ranger, it's a great boat, and that series was very good even if it's older.
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Thanks all! Next question. When I test drive the boat I made sure that the water spit out of the engine in a strong stream when it was running, but don’t recall if it came out when the boat wasn’t in gear. On my driveway with the dog ears on and the motor in neutral, no water comes out of the hole (don’t know the proper name for this hole - water exhaust port?).
Question is whether this is normal when in idle? A buddy with an older boat says that it has to be in gear to turn the impeller to spit water because the impellers don’t spin unless the prop does.
Is this true?
To be safe I only ran the motor for 60 Seconds, but I am curious to see what others have to say. Going to call my mechanic tomorrow but thought I’d ask here first.
1992 Mercury XRi 2.5L 200hp
Thanks.
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not true, the impeller is driven by the drive shaft directly from the motor. It sits on the top of the lower unit before the actual foot. the prop is driven by the set of gears inside the lu that turn the prop shaft, the 2 are totally separate from each other. I believe what you're prob seeing is on some plumbing on some motors the thermostats have to open up before you see the tell tail (pee stream) peeing. On some motors on some years the tell tail is plumbed on a by pass so it pees as soon as the motor starts
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not true, the impeller is driven by the drive shaft directly from the motor. It sits on the top of the lower unit before the actual foot. the prop is driven by the set of gears inside the lu that turn the prop shaft, the 2 are totally separate from each other. I believe what you're prob seeing is on some plumbing on some motors the thermostats have to open up before you see the tell tail (pee stream) peeing. On some motors on some years the tell tail is plumbed on a by pass so it pees as soon as the motor starts
Thank You bullet!
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not true, the impeller is driven by the drive shaft directly from the motor. It sits on the top of the lower unit before the actual foot. the prop is driven by the set of gears inside the lu that turn the prop shaft, the 2 are totally separate from each other. I believe what you're prob seeing is on some plumbing on some motors the thermostats have to open up before you see the tell tail (pee stream) peeing. On some motors on some years the tell tail is plumbed on a by pass so it pees as soon as the motor starts
Thank You bullet!
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How long is reasonable to wait for the pee stream to start without risking damage to the motor from overheating?
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@pprice01 Some motors won't pee well using muffs. I had an outboard here in my yard on a boat that I was helping someone sell. It was a 40 HP Yamaha.
Start it up with muffs and not a drop of water would come out the pee hole. Stick the motor in a barrel full of water and it would pee up a storm.
Not sure if that's also the case with your outboard or not, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Maybe someone else will have more feedback on this.
By the way, nice looking boat! Really love that color scheme, and it looks like it's in decent shape.
Oh, and do my eyes deceive me, or is that a paper graph on the console?? (hmm)
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@pprice01 Some motors won't pee well using muffs. I had an outboard here in my yard on a boat that I was helping someone sell. It was a 40 HP Yamaha.
Start it up with muffs and not a drop of water would come out the pee hole. Stick the motor in a barrel full of water and it would pee up a storm.
Not sure if that's also the case with your outboard or not, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Maybe someone else will have more feedback on this.
By the way, nice looking boat! Really love that color scheme, and it looks like it's in decent shape.
Oh, and do my eyes deceive me, or is that a paper graph on the console?? (hmm)
Thank you. Yes, indeed that is a paper-based graphing relic, and it works!
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That's amazing! The detail of the old paper graphs was incredible (yes)
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@pprice01 Some motors won't pee well using muffs.
I use a clamp to pull the muff cups against the LU to get a better seal, and turn the water up fairly good, otherwise some of the older ones I've tested wouldn't pee, and would also over heat because not enough water volume.
It wouldn't hurt to do a post-purchase routine that includes preventative change of the thermostats and water pump impeller just to ensure all is good for you.
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It wouldn't hurt to do a post-purchase routine that includes preventative change of the thermostats and water pump impeller just to ensure all is good for you.
What he said!
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It wouldn't hurt to do a post-purchase routine that includes preventative change of the thermostats and water pump impeller just to ensure all is good for you.
What he said!
I’m going to run it down to the mechanic on Monday and have them give it a once-over. This is for peace of mind and to pay them something for all of the advice, assistance and time they generously gave to me while I was researching, learning, and selecting my used boat. Sort of an appreciation and relationship-building gesture.
They told me yesterday that my motor does have thermostats and that it won’t start peeing out until it comes up to temperature. Also that if it does start to get hot he motor alarm will sound and that I can easily leave it running in the dog ears for 5 minutes without a high risk of overheating.
Projects tackled so far:
1. Reword the 24v system as the previous owner bought new batteries and jumped them incorrectly - now the trolling motor works!
2. Repair the hinge on the center-bow storage locker. The rivets has all broken off buried in the lid so that was a treat.
3. Sand the pedestal seat post bases and base receiver holes to make them easier to insert and remove. They are still tight however - any ideas? I want them tight, but they are too tight. They have plastic bushings in the base and the previous owner told me that they were never removed in 20+ years and had basically become welded into their bases. So when he had to remove them to take his wife out he had a ‘difficult’ time and I want to bring it back to new condition. Buy replacement pedestal posts and plastic bushings for the bases or?
Thanks everyone for all the help.
Paul
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Sounds like you're definitely headed in the right direction with everything!
Regarding the pedestal poles and bases, etc., sanding them is a good start. Maybe sand them a bit more and then coat them with some light wax (rub candle wax on them) or put a light film of silicone spray on them.
Once you get them working the way you want, be sure to remove them frequently so they don't do the same thing to you they did to the former owner! (giggle)
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Sounds like you're definitely headed in the right direction with everything!
Regarding the pedestal poles and bases, etc., sanding them is a good start. Maybe sand them a bit more and then coat them with some light wax (rub candle wax on them) or put a light film of silicone spray on them.
Once you get them working the way you want, be sure to remove them frequently so they don't do the same thing to you they did to the former owner! (giggle)
Thank You. Good ideas. I did spray them with silicon spray before I put them back in, will see how they come out and likely given them another round of sanding.
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I had that kind of pedestal and base setup in my Champion. It was a pain and I had to keep working on it all the time until I finally changed out the bases and to different pedestals.
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Next question - Adding a disconnect to the battery system.
Currently I have a 24v setup for the TM and a separate 12v for the main motor.
How should I wire in a disconnect for when I am done using the boat and it goes into storage for a couple of weeks?
Also, when I want to engage the onboard charger, do I need to remove any wires from the batteries? I’ve read that I should disconnect the negative form the cranking battery.
Lastly, my accessories all seem to be wired to my cranking battery - is this appropriate or should they be connected to the TM batteries instead?
Thanks,
Paul
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for a simple setup, use a inline breaker for both the 24 volt to trolling motor, and 12 volt to the boat, but leave the cables to the engine hard connected, you don't want a breaker on those, the engine is fused on it's own. Then, just trip the breakers - they (if you use marine style) will have a little trip button for this purpose, so they make a nice disconnect - that's what I've got on my Ranger.
Now, if you want to get fancy, there is a marine dual battery switch that can be also used as a disconnect for the engine battery, plus it makes it so if your cranking battery goes dead during the day, a twist of the switch puts the lower 12V battery from the troller string in parallel with the engine battery as a jump start, I've got that also on both my boats, fortunately I've only used once time, but it saved a tournament bag from being disqualified due to a no-start at the end of the day.
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for a simple setup, use a inline breaker for both the 24 volt to trolling motor, and 12 volt to the boat, but leave the cables to the engine hard connected, you don't want a breaker on those, the engine is fused on it's own. Then, just trip the breakers - they (if you use marine style) will have a little trip button for this purpose, so they make a nice disconnect - that's what I've got on my Ranger.
Now, if you want to get fancy, there is a marine dual battery switch that can be also used as a disconnect for the engine battery, plus it makes it so if your cranking battery goes dead during the day, a twist of the switch puts the lower 12V battery from the troller string in parallel with the engine battery as a jump start, I've got that also on both my boats, fortunately I've only used once time, but it saved a tournament bag from being disqualified due to a no-start at the end of the day.
I have been researching what I believe to be the second option from what you’ve suggested - thank you for the info. I’m seeing the red switches that rotate to select the batteries. When you get a chance could you send a photo for how you wired yours?
Also, is there any issue with charging the batteries with everything connected?
Thanks again!
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No issues with charging with everything connected.
Running all of the accessories from the starting battery is pretty standard. That's how I've run all of my boats for the last 30 years or more. Never had an issue with a dead cranking battery. Just make sure you have a good, strong cranker and you should be good to go.
And, no, there is no need to remove any wires from any of the batteries when charging, and no need to disconnect the negative from the cranking battery when charging. (nope)
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Only thing that I know of, regarding disconnecting anything when charging, is some people claim you need to disconnect the trolling motor. That can be done simply by unplugging up front. They also claim that turning OFF the switch on the foot pedal is not adequate.
I don't recall why this is said to be necessary and don't have an opinion either way. I, personally, don't do this as I've never experienced an issue over 28 years of boat-owning. Not saying I'm right or they're wrong. Just comes to mind in this conversation and for your consideration.
(shrug)
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Regarding what @Nightmare just mentioned, I ALWAYS unplug my trolling motor when I leave the lake, for two reasons.
First, it prevents the oddball chance of something weird happening and having the TM somehow turning on while I'm driving down the road. I know the chances are slim for this to happen, but I do know of at least one person who had this happen, and it chewed his TM prop up pretty good, as well as leaving some ugly scars on the his bow.
I also don't want to have the TM plugged in when I charge the batteries because I remember some old school info that somehow gave me the impression that it was a good practice. Not sure why, but I never questioned it and wasn't willing to take a chance finding out the hard way that it was correct info.
Lastly, I leave my TM unplugged when charging, just in case there is any kind of voltage/power surge. I don't want it burning out my TM. This could happen if there was a lightning strike while I was charging my batteries.
However, I typically unplug my charger once the batteries are charged up and only plug the charger back in the evening before going fishing. I also unplug it if there is even a slight chance of a T storm.
With all of that said, I have noticed a trend now that has eliminated the TM plug up front and the TM is hard wired into the boat's electrical system. So this would eliminate the ability to unplug it. (hmm)
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I don't unplug anything any time. I do have 2 shut offs for the trolling motor and shut both off before I leave the lake, Like frug mentioned, I have the master shut off switch installed. I turn it off when I get home. It kills all of the power to the boat (motor, tmotor, antenna, chart plotters, power poles). I have 3 or 4 items which draw current even when turned off and the master switch is necessary to shut them down. After it is turned off I plug in my charger and forget about it until I go fishing again.
If you have flooded cell batteries, you should open them at least monthly and check the water level. If any are getting low add distilled water.
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Wow, thanks for the data everyone! I really appreciate it.
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Wow, thanks for the data everyone! I really appreciate it.
You're welcome! That's what we're here for!
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When you get a chance could you send a photo for how you wired yours?
Ok, here's how I wire in a battery selector switch, and which one I use.
the first is the switch
the second is my diagram
the third is the basic premise of an A-B switch
you'll notice a couple details please, there are ususally 2 cables to the engine, the high current starter cable, and a lower current operations cable. All of the power to run the engine usually comes from that smaller cable, even the start switch, etc. They both should be directly connected to either the common or vessel positive. EVERYTHING else for the vessel (livewells, lights, etc.) should only be connected to the vessel battery. The trolling motor is only connected to the trolling batteries.
part of the reason for the above, you want the engine to be able to run from either battery (or both), but the vessel accessories should only be run on the vessel battery. if you have a 'dead battery' or 'no start', you can do one of the following 2 procedures. move the selector to 'BOT"H', start the engine, let it run for a few minutes, then move the selctor to A (vessel) and see if the engine continues to run and your voltmeter (You do have one on board, right?) reads that the engine is charging the vessel battery
Hope this helps someone, it's worked for me for over 30 years of boating
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No issues with charging with everything connected.
Running all of the accessories from the starting battery is pretty standard. That's how I've run all of my boats for the last 30 years or more. Never had an issue with a dead cranking battery. Just make sure you have a good, strong cranker and you should be good to go.
And, no, there is no need to remove any wires from any of the batteries when charging, and no need to disconnect the negative from the cranking battery when charging. (nope)
Absolutely correct!
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Thanks everyone. Really appreciate it. Next question: anyone install a recessed trolling motor tray in the bow? Curious if I’m risking hitting anything structural up there should I cut into the deck.
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All I can say is I had my Champion done professionally and am glad I did because they cut through the channel that contained all of my wiring going to the bow.
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All I can say is I had my Champion done professionally and am glad I did because they cut through the channel that contained all of my wiring going to the bow.
Thanks! That’s why I am asking. From what I’ve read in the manual and online and seen myself on the boat (for what I have visual access to) it seems that the wiring is all run through pvc pipes that run along the sides of the boat.
I am going to try and call Tanger today and ask them. I am concerned about potentially hitting a support that runs side to side or from the center storage compartment forward below the deck in that area.
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I hope you can find someone there who was around when the boat was built and has some idea of its construction.
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I hope you can find someone there who was around when the boat was built and has some idea of its construction.
I’m hoping they still have the design schematics at least. Might run a stud finder over the bow also to see what it can pick up
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Ranger told me that t can be done but that they ‘don’t recommend it’. Basically that it was fine to do it and there’s only foam there, but that I wanted to take care not to get the foam wet. So seal the opening as much as possible. Also, they directed me to a pvc tube that runs along the keel from the very front to the bulge for tying in the TM tray’s drain line.
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I did my own. As with what you were told, G3 told me that they "didn't recommend it" for this boat. But I did it anyway, and with no negative results whatsoever.
http://www.bassboatboards.com/index.php/topic,1650.msg12653.html#msg12653
Always good to do your homework beforehand, though :nod:
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Sounds like you are ready to go then. Good luck. I hope it all works for you. Shoot some pics of the process and post them please.
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:nono: Just be REAL certain of where you want it in relationship to your pedestal. I got mine a little closer than ideal but its livable.
(nope)
Seal the cut edges of the deck.
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:nono: Just be REAL certain of where you want it in relationship to your pedestal. I got mine a little closer than ideal but its livable.
(nope)
Seal the cut edges of the deck.
Thanks! I plan to sit on the seat and tape off my foot in the most comfortable position and then try it standing as well.
For sealing, do you suggest simply painting resin onto the wood, or?
I also plan to silicon the lip of the tray to the deck as well - which begs the question as to whether to run the carpet under the lip or only just up to the edge?
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I also plan to silicon the lip of the tray to the deck as well - which begs the question as to whether to run the carpet under the lip or only just up to the edge?
Most all I've seen leave the carpet to about a 1/4" of the edge of the cut-out, and the lip sits on top of the carpet, with a thick bead of 5200 in that 1/4" that is void of carpet, the 5200 is a STRONG adhesive and that becomes most of the bonding and the screws simply hold it in place till the 5200 sets up. That 1/4" also let's you seal the edge very well with a coating of epoxy resin.
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Started buffing out the trailer to practice before moving to the hull. It’s definitely better, but not even close to the original black color:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/4bb03ff9d853e84bf684a49d3115003c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/b09194f95b489dddd7ad915756ff2189.jpg)
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do you have photos of when it was new? how do you know it's not
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I can see ‘protected areas of the fenders that are a much deeper black:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/e3e07e492232f475c5d68a51930feb04.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/a4c83559e70870f5bc68471076a9f85f.jpg)
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what products are u using? you may have to be a little more aggressive w/ the compound, but not too much or you'll start exposing flakes - not good
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what products are u using? you may have to be a little more aggressive w/ the compound, but not too much or you'll start exposing flakes - not good
I used the Meguire’s 3-part fiberglass/gelcoat restoration kit.
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I originally considered having my detailer color sand and polish it but I read specifically in the manual that it should not be color sanded
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Check out http://protecproducts.com/
Joe's stuff is some of the best on the market!
@Basscat1
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Check out http://protecproducts.com/
Joe's stuff is some of the best on the market!
@Basscat1
Interesting. Thanks Curt. Virtually the same boat he used in the video and he wetsanded it, even though the actual Ranger manual says not to.
I polisher the transom tonight and will check it tomorrow. It wasn’t as bad as the sides so if the Meguires doesn’t do a good job I may sub the job to my detailer to wetsand it.
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When you get all the oxidation buffed out you may want to find a good polymer sealant to put on the boat to help keep the finish. I have been using Bow to Stern for several years and am happy with the results that I had seen.
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he wetsanded it, even though the actual Ranger manual says not to.
I've heard of a lot of guys who wet sand boats when the finish is really bad. @Hydeshydro @Matt@Fractures and @Basscat1 all do this, I believe.
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he wetsanded it, even though the actual Ranger manual says not to.
I've heard of a lot of guys who wet sand boats when the finish is really bad. @Hydeshydro @Matt@Fractures and @Basscat1 all do this, I believe.
I believe it, as it was my initial instinct to do this as well. The question is really how low of a grit to start - 1000? To keep it at a safe but effective level.
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I believe it, as it was my initial instinct to do this as well. The question is really how low of a grit to start - 1000? To keep it at a safe but effective level.
I usually error on the safe side, start finer and if not satisfactory go more aggressive, then when I get it honed in at a beginning grit do the job
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@frugalangler hit the nail on the head. Start super, super fine and work your way up (more coarse), only if necessary.
Sometimes the least abrasive is all it will take. And more often than not, you start with super fine and get finer with the grit as you go.
Here's a video for you that mentions specific grits and all of the subsequent steps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW8Ire1-rGg
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Anyone have an idea what this 3-way switch is supposed to run? The labels you see below tie to the bottom row of switches.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180130/f652cc73db0f66b92dba7f1cf16a175f.jpg)
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Many boats come with a switch or two that is not wired to anything at all. It's there to be used in the event you install a new accessory that requires a switch, so you can add it without having to buy a switch for it. You can just wire it to the existing spare switch(es).
Maybe that's what this is for. Have you looked underneath to see if there are any wires attached to it?
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Also, the way it's labeled, is it a second interior light for different compartments, kinda implied by the ones to the left for 2 bilge pumps which is a Ranger standard.
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Also, the way it's labeled, is it a second interior light for different compartments, kinda implied by the ones to the left for 2 bilge pumps which is a Ranger standard.
Thanks all. The upper left switch allows power to the surface temp switch. There is only one bulge pump that runs off the lower-left switch. I need to get uber the dash to see what is hooked up to the mystery switch, if anything.
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Anyone know if they still sell parts to replace the valve that controls flow to the livewells? Even when they are set to empty they still fill a few inches with water. Thanks.
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yep and i would add a lower unit oil change to that list, check for water intrusion, oil will be the color of yoo hoo or coffee with cream in it. If so change out the seals on the prop shaft and impeller housing. do not reuse the drain and fill o-rings.
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yep and i would add a lower unit oil change to that list, check for water intrusion, oil will be the color of yoo hoo or coffee with cream in it. If so change out the seals on the prop shaft and impeller housing. do not reuse the drain and fill o-rings.
Thanks! I immediately had the lower unit serviced and new impeller and oil change as part of it.
Any idea where I could get that part for the live well? Also, for replacement where is it? I’m guessing that I need to remove my battery charger and the cover plate on the bilge to access it?
Thanks.
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must have missed that post about the livewell part what is it you need
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must have missed that post about the livewell part what is it you need
From what I’ve read there is an in-line valve that controls the direction of the water flow. It seems to be broken as the livewells fill a few inches as soon as I launch the boat - even with both switches set to empty.
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I've always taken the old part out so I could match it to ones I see available online, I use sources like iboats.com, sometimes ebay also. Trying to find the correct one sight unseen of the original is a crap shoot, what if someone changed it from original configuration?
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Anyone know if they still sell parts to replace the valve that controls flow to the livewells? Even when they are set to empty they still fill a few inches with water. Thanks.
My guess is that the valve you need isn't unique to Ranger boats. OIt's probably a standard valve that's used across the industry.
Now, as for where to get one, I found several on Amazon: http://amzn.to/2sf9ezT
You'd need to take your old one out and see how it's designed and then find the one that most closely resembles your current one. Unless of course there is a part number on it that you can search for.
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Anyone know if they still sell parts to replace the valve that controls flow to the livewells? Even when they are set to empty they still fill a few inches with water. Thanks.
My guess is that the valve you need isn't unique to Ranger boats. OIt's probably a standard valve that's used across the industry.
Now, as for where to get one, I found several on Amazon: http://amzn.to/2sf9ezT
You'd need to take your old one out and see how it's designed and then find the one that most closely resembles your current one. Unless of course there is a part number on it that you can search for.
Thanks everybody!
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are you by chance talking about the valve that closes the inlet from allowng water to get in or our so it can recirculate. Usually a cable operated plastic flow valve. It is common to have an inch or so left in the livewell due to the way the drain hole is situated in the well. If left open by the time u get home it should empty by driving up hill on your trip. florite sells them direct or u can save a few bucks on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flow-Rite-Livewell-Valve-MPV-04-FN01-Fill-Empty-Recirc-Front-Cable/173145154452?epid=1349897389&hash=item2850416394:g:8lEAAOSw5nxadzpn&vxp=mtr
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are you by chance talking about the valve that closes the inlet from allowng water to get in so it can recirculate. Usually a cable operated plastic low valve. lorite sells them direct or u can save a few bucks on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flow-Rite-Livewell-Valve-MPV-04-FN01-Fill-Empty-Recirc-Front-Cable/173145154452?epid=1349897389&hash=item2850416394:g:8lEAAOSw5nxadzpn&vxp=mtr
Got to be honest, I am not sure! I think so, but until I take it apart and see for myself I won’t know for sure.
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On the valve thing - it doesn't force water in or out, it only allows flow either way. If it's open, water will fill your livewells only to the level of water that your boat sits in. When you get on plane, it will flow out to the level of same (less in wells because your hull is more up on top of the water at speed). If you shut the valve, you can pump water into the wells to the point of the overflow and keep it that way whether sitting still or on plane (what you want when fish are in the wells).
Easy to check if valve is working when sitting on the trailer at home; run livewells full with hose while setting your valve control to CLOSED and the wells should fill up and no water running out the thru-hull fitting - set the valve to OPEN position and water should run out the fitting.
If you already know this and I misunderstand the problem, sorry. If you're unsure what I'm saying, say so and I'll try again. (shrug)
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On the valve thing - it doesn't force water in or out, it only allows flow either way. If it's open, water will fill your livewells only to the level of water that your boat sits in. When you get on plane, it will flow out to the level of same (less in wells because your hull is more up on top of the water at speed). If you shut the valve, you can pump water into the wells to the point of the overflow and keep it that way whether sitting still or on plane (what you want when fish are in the wells).
Easy to check if valve is working when sitting on the trailer at home; run livewells full with hose while setting your valve control to CLOSED and the wells should fill up and no water running out the thru-hull fitting - set the valve to OPEN position and water should run out the fitting.
If you already know this and I misunderstand the problem, sorry. If you're unsure what I'm saying, say so and I'll try again. (shrug)
I think I understand, thanks. However, if the valve is set to closed, isn’t it supposed to stay dry unless I force water in?
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And, if it's a typical Ranger, it's a 3-port valve that is FILL/DRAIN/RECIRC not like the one shown in the previous posts
The way it works:
FILL - if you turn on the pump, it will pump water from transom into livewell fill at top of livewell
DRAIN - lets water drain from bottom of livewell to transom
RECIRC - lets water be pumped from bottom of livewell to fill on top of livewell, prevents water from draining to transom
HTH
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And, if it's a typical Ranger, it's a 3-port valve that is FILL/DRAIN/RECIRC not like the one shown in the previous posts
And that will be a bit different than what I was thinking. (hmm)
And not necessarily a valve issue, could be the cable from control to valve is binding up and fully extending/retracting. Just another thought.
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What would be the best way to back flush it to see if it’s blocked?
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What would be the best way to back flush it to see if it’s blocked?
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I usually test in driveway w/ Garden hose, put in RECIRC and fill livewell, turn on pump, see if it recirculates but doesn't drain on ground, and then turn off pump and put in drain and it should drain - if all that works, then it's /likely/ gonna fill on the lake, that's hard to test in driveway
if you got a muscle shell stuck, then you may have to put a hose up to filler/drain on transom and try to push water thru w/ it in drain position, then if nothing (dirt/shells/sand) comes out drain on livewell, move to FILL and turn on pump and see if it will fill, but this will likely give you a bath holding a hose to the transom LOL
best thing is to pull the false bottom and inspect the valve and that it moves correctly when you move control, failures are either the arm on the valve breaks/bends, the cable gets stuck or broken, or the control arm bends/breaks - not really much to it
it's also possible that water froze in the tubes/valve and cracked it or disconnected something, so inspection is key
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And not necessarily a valve issue, could be the cable from control to valve is binding up and fully extending/retracting. Just another thought.
I actually have this problem with one of my livewells. If I switch the valve to Recirculate and pull the boat from the awter, it will slowly leak out the drain pipe and empty the livewell after about 15 minutes.
The other livewell, however, works as intended and stays full for as long as I keep the valve closed. It's been like this since forever and I really need to find out why. But I'm afraid to dig into it because I've never dealt with that kind of stuff before and don't know exactly what to look for.
I guess the only way to do it is to just do it :nod:
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you either have a nut or rock or debris holding it slightly open or a hole in that emptying livewell hose. you can adjust that shutoff valve cable also maybe it slipped and isnt pulling the ball closed all the way
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you can adjust that shutoff valve cable also maybe it slipped and isn't pulling the ball closed all the way
When turning the valve control knob/dial, it doesn't move as freely as the other one does. I believe it's a problem with the cable binding up, or the valve itself binding up. I'm not even sure where this valve would be located in order for me to get to it.
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Anyone know if you can cut into the side of the gunnel on the bow to install the retractable belts for holding rods down on the bow deck?
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Anyone know if you can cut into the side of the gunnel on the bow to install the retractable belts for holding rods down on the bow deck?
I've had excellent results calling Ranger parts with similar questions, most those guys been around a while and know the older models, and may even have a recommendation for which unit works best, I'd start there. Also, join the FaceBook Ranger Bass Boat Owners group and post your question there, you're likely gonna find someone that owns the same model answer.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/161435340546025/about/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/161435340546025/about/)
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I was gonna suggest calling Ranger too, since they would know what might or might not be located inside of that gunwale area. :nod:
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I can tell u inside the gunwhales there is foam floatation so make shallow cuts just through the glass as not to pierce any wiring harness on the port (passenger) side you will have to spoon out the foam. No real good way to cut it out. About 2 1/2 inches deep Ive done a few retractable rod hold downs i never saw anything structural to worry about but it is messy. have a shop vac handy while u cut through and wear long sleeve shirt. pref a throw away. You dont want to put that shirt in the washing machine with your underwear. OMG you will be itching for weeks. Not really that big a deal
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You dont want to put that shirt in the washing machine with your underwear. OMG you will be itching for weeks.
(giggle) (giggle) :surprised:
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You dont want to put that shirt in the washing machine with your underwear. OMG you will be itching for weeks. Not really that big a deal
OMG you will be itching for weeks. Not really that big a deal,
Some things when taken out of context are hilarious!!!!!!!
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maybe I should have structured that sentence a little differently huh (giggle) (giggle)